Check your dealer fees before you sign.
Snap or paste the out-the-door quote. First, how your price compares with the same car for sale near you. Then every fee, junk, negotiable or legit, with what it really costs and what to say to get it removed.
ChatGPT can read your quote. It can’t make three dealers fight over it.
Add the car, VIN or dealership (optional)
The VIN is only used to look up the car and is never saved. The dealership name lets us compare its fees with other stores near you.
Free · No signup · Names, addresses and VINs are stripped
How it works · 0:11
Three steps. No account.
A photo of the buyer’s order or worksheet, a PDF, the dealer’s text, or just the car and the out-the-door price.
Your price against the same car listed for sale near you: the median asking price, the range, and where yours ranks. Then each fee is marked junk, negotiable or legit, with the typical real cost next to what your dealer charged.
An A to F grade, the total you can push back on (junk fees plus dealer charges to question), and a line to copy for each fee you want gone. Share it or keep it.
What we do with your quote: names, street addresses, phone numbers, emails, VINs and account numbers are stripped before anything is saved. We keep the line items, the car and the totals so your report link works. Nothing is sent to the dealer.
The dealer fees to question.
Nitrogen tire fill
VIN etching
Protection package
Paint protection
Dealer prep / market adjustment
Over-cap doc fee
Sales tax and the state’s title and registration fees are real and are never flagged; a title or registration line well above what your state charges is marked negotiable. A doc fee is flagged as junk only when it is over your state’s legal cap; in a state with no cap, like Florida, a high one is marked negotiable. More in dealer junk fees explained.
Graded on what you pay for the car.
With your ZIP, the grade is the price you would actually pay for the car, the selling price plus every dealer charge you can push back on, against the median asking price of comparable cars for sale near you. A great price is not marked down to an F because of an add-on you can get removed; the add-on just keeps it from an A.
Without market data (no ZIP, or fewer than 5 comparable listings), the grade comes from the fees alone, and the quote gets the worse of the two columns:
Junk fees are add-ons you can refuse outright. Dealer charges to question are negotiable or unrecognized lines, like a doc fee in a state with no cap, a dealer service fee, an e-file fee or an add-on package. A dealer markup (“market adjustment”) over $1,500 is an F either way. When listings are missing but recent sales exist, the dollars over the sold median are added to the junk fees. A quote with no itemized fees gets no grade. Taxes and the state’s title and registration fees never count. Market figures and the out-the-door range are estimates, never a quote.
The checker shows the fees. Motrix negotiates them off.
Motrix runs the negotiation for you in writing. It works dealers against each other, round after round, and strikes junk fees by name until there is one out-the-door number worth signing. You go to the store once, to sign.
the same-spec sticker plus tax and tags.
the $57,305 sticker.
Deal and Pro: $0 until you sign.
Have Motrix negotiate my dealDealer fees, answered.
Which dealer fees are legit, and which can I refuse?
Sales tax, title and registration are set by your state and are legit. A doc fee is legit up to your state’s cap where there is one. Add-ons the dealer puts on the quote, like nitrogen tire fill, VIN etching, paint or fabric protection, protection packages, dealer prep and market adjustments, are optional products or extra margin, and you can ask for each one to come off by name.
What is an out-the-door price?
The out-the-door price is the total you pay to drive the car home: selling price plus every dealer fee, add-on, tax, title and registration. It is the number worth comparing between dealers, because a low selling price can be undone by fees added further down the quote.
How do I know if my car deal is a good deal?
Get the quote itemized and in writing, then check two things: the fees and the selling price. The checker marks every fee junk, negotiable or legit. With your ZIP, it also lines the selling price up against the same car listed for sale near you: the median asking price, the range and where yours ranks. When there are too few listings to say, the report says so.
Is the dealer doc fee negotiable? What about in Florida?
Some states cap the doc fee, and anything above the cap is junk. Florida has no cap, so the fee is set store by store and is negotiable: if the line will not move, ask for the same amount off the selling price. The checker flags a doc fee as junk only when it is over your state’s cap, and marks a high one in an uncapped state as negotiable.
What are dealer add-ons?
Dealer add-ons are products the store adds to the car or the quote after it leaves the factory: nitrogen in the tires, VIN etching, paint protection, wheel locks, anti-theft devices and bundled protection packages. They usually cost the dealer a small fraction of the charge. The report shows the typical real cost next to what your dealer charged.
Is it free? Do I need to sign up?
It is free and there is no signup. Upload a photo or PDF of the quote, paste the text, or type the car and the out-the-door price.
What happens to my quote?
Names, street addresses, phone numbers, emails, VINs and account numbers are stripped before anything is saved. We keep the line items, the car and the totals so your report link and share card work. Nothing is sent to the dealer.
Can Motrix get the junk fees removed for me?
Yes. Motrix negotiates the deal for you in writing: it works dealers against each other round after round and strikes junk fees by name until there is one out-the-door number worth signing. Deal and Pro: $0 until you sign.